From the Nags Head Inn in the centre of Edale a journey of discovery begins. If you are doing this walk in one long hard enjoyable strectch then what you will discover if you haven't already is your inner strengths and weaknesses and if you are not walking alone those of your companions as well so be prepared. This is not a walk for the faint hearted but a walk for those that are passionate to succeed.
Having said that I believe that if you can cope with the first few days of Dark Peat Bog over Kinder and Bleaklow then you're almost there. Man has made this walk much, much easier in recent years, he's provided a hard path over the bog! Now some think that's cheating but I think even with the aid of a little bit of hardcore if you can walk from Edale to Kirk Yetholm you deserve a pint! I've had several care of Wainwright thank you very much.
Jacob's Ladder, Kinder Scout and Downfall Torside Resvervoir at Crowden
gradual climb up Blakely Clough onto Black Moss, the moss being replaced by some impressive yorkstone slabs for the walk over to Black Moss Reservoir having passed Swellands Resvervoir on the right. With the introduction of the stones the path joins the banks of the reservoir at its south east corner and goes anti clockwise around to the north west corner before picking up another section of slabs over Rocher Moss.
Another detour as a result of slab introduction takes the way down towards Redbrook Reservoir before which it turns left joining a wide track that is part of the Standedge Trail. The track ends in a car park with a useful information board on the side of the A62
From Standedge the route is joined by the Oldham Way initially following a hardcore track before turning left over a style that takes a well defined path up onto Standedge the edge of Close Moor. The edge is followed with dry gritstone under foot before dipping to a square stone waymark indicating the Oldham Way straight on and the Pennine Way turning right.
The gritstone is replaced by another man made path through the peat although this becomes non existent when descending to the two streams that are crossed on route to the A640 road. Its here that the Pennine Way meets the Station to Station Walk going west to east. The Pennine Way goes straight across heading over to White Hill (466m) and Green Hole Hill before heading towards the mast at the side of the M62.
If you've ever gone along the M62 and seen the footbridge close to junction 22 and wondered what goes over it, wonder no more cos the Pennine Way does.
to Colden
Crossing the Calderdale Way a short scramble brings you onto the edge of Higher Moor and a flat solid path to Stoodley Pike Monument. Turning left along the Calderdale Way would have taken you down to Mankinholes should you have required it.
From the road the Pennine Way heads towards Walshaw Dean Lower Reservoir but be careful and follow the welcoming signs. Don't walk on the road but use the path provided. I presume that excessive use of the boot on tarmac is going to wear it down considerably. You have been warned!
At the top of Dick Delf Hill the Yorkstone Pavers appear again leading you down to the ruins at Top Withins
The plaque on the ruin at Top Withens was placed there by the Brontë Society in 1964 "in reponse to many inquiries" and reads "The Farmhouse has been associated with "Wuthering Heights", the Earnshaw home in Emily Brontë's novel. The buildings, even when complete, bore no resemblance to the house she described, but the situation may have been in her mind when she wrote of the moorland setting of the heights."
From Top Withens the way takes a gradual descent over Stanbury Moor before turning north and joining the Brontë Way past a series of houses down to the dam on Ponden Reservoir. Take the wide tarmac road along the southern edge of the reservoir. The road turns into a track. Follow this around past Pondon Hall. Note the plaque! Still continuing along the track you reach a signpost indicating a right hand turn whilst the Brontë Way continues straight on. The path descends again this time to the top end of Ponden Reservoir.
Briefly join the minor road in a left / right zig zag to join a track climbing fairly steeply out of the valley and on to the top road. Go left contining around the bend for approx 500m before doubling back along a path to the right. Pick up a boundary wall that will take you up onto Thornton Hill and with a genlte climb up to Little and Great Wolf Stones
Ickornshaw Moor
Lothersdale
From Malham there is only one direction and that's to the cove. Malham Cove stands above the River Aire like a hugh limstone dam that has been scared by the erosion of time. The path ascends its left hand side onto its famous limestone pavement topping and then heads up the dry river bed that once played its part in forming this wonder of nature.
The coarse of the dry valley brings you up to Malham Tarn another wonder of nature in a limestone landscape and a protect nature resverve. Taking a route around its easterly shore the track brings you to the field centre at the back of the tarn.
A little further on the path heads north through Water Houses running parrellelish to a minor road on the left before descending to, crossing and ascending from it up to Tennant Gill. From here the path traverses Fountains Fell's northern flank giving the first views of Pen-y-Ghent before descending down into Silverdale.
I little known fact is that this dale was used in a TV commercial for the National Coal Board's "Come Home to a Real Fire" campaign in the 1970's when a school boy got off the bus on a cold and miserable day and went into his warm and welcoming home (Rainscar). I know this because we were walking the Pennine Way at the time and where treated to bacon sandwiches by the catering crew. The cold and miserable wheather on this occasion had been simulated by smoke machines and water jets!
Churn Milk Hole
join the Yorkshire Three Peaks walk up the first of the three Pen-y-Ghent
On to Horton in Ribblesdale and the Pen-y-Ghent Café and the infamous "Three Peaks of Yorkshire" clocking on machine! and of coarse their great mugs of tea & coffee. This is where the Three Peaks of Yorkshire starts and finishes. Do it within twelve hours and you're a member of the club. Do it whilst you're doing the Pennine Way and I'll think you're a hero or mad! Another route that passes through here and is associated with the Pen-y-Ghent Cafe is the Limestone Lion
Hawes Hardraw pass through the Green Dragon Inn to get to Hardraw Force.
From here you join a meandering walled green lane heading for Great Shunner Fell. The lane eventually arrives at a five bar gate that opens up onto the wide expanse of the fell itself. If there are a stack of bales here and you've got a dog please beware because this is where the farmer keeps his snap. I know because my dogs ate it! Sorry Mr Farmer.
After rain the top of great Shunner Fell can be very boggy. We once found an old "Desert Rat" waist deep in the bog on top of Great Shunner Fell and the only thing that had stopped him going deeper was the Gerry Can he was clinging to! The descent down to Thwaite provides excellent views eastwards down the Swale past Muker.
The route out of Thwaite is a little confusing as you seem to go into the front garden of a farmhouse and are then instantly diverted through a hole in the wall to the left to follow a passage to the side whilst ignoring the path signed for Angram.
After crossing a couple of fields a disceptively long ascent begins and continues beyond Kisdon Farm before leveling out. The veiws of the Swale valley here are excellent. Spend a little time here as the next stretch towards Keld needs you to keep your eyes to the ground unless you want a broken ankle.
There is scree a plenty on this section. Before reaching Keld take some more timeout to visit Kisdon Force a couple of waterfalls on the Swale in a very nice setting. Be careful though as the descent down to the falls can be very slippy even in dry weather.
Keld is where the Pennine Way crosses Wainwright's Coast to Coast path and Bob Allen's Dales Walk and as a result is a hive of activity for walkers.
and at Park House mailto:Park.house@btinternet.com They have a small shop,holiday cottage, shower and a shed for sitting in and cooking in in inclement weather!
JR & BA Rukin at Park Lodge have a small shop during the spring, summer and autumn with light refreshments and a holiday cottage
Tan Hill Inn the highest Inn in England and draft free!
Cross the A66 (this is a fast and busy trunk road be very aware)
Balderhead Reservoir
Grassholme Reservoir
to Middleton in Teesdale
From Middleton the Pennine Way is joined by the Teesdale Way albeit in the opposite direction, if of course there is an opposite direction to a walk? The going under foot is excellent and relatively flat along the side of the River Tees with some great sites along the way including Wynch Suspension Bridge, Low Force, the Sheep Sculpture and High Force.
A little beyond High Force and past the quarry on the opposite bank the way turns away from the river and heads up through gorse bushes and rabbit warrens onto Bracken Rigg. At the stone waymark turn right down to Cronkley where you pick up a farm track down to and over the Tees. Turn directly left and follow the river bank to Saur Hall Bridge. Turn right to Langdon Beck left over the bridge to continue on the Pennine Way.
Just before Sayer Hill Farm the way climbs a bank and crosses grazing land before meeting the Tees again. Beyond Widdy Bank Farm the path gradually closes in between Widdy Fell and the river and becomes very boldery underfoot. Extreme care needs to be taken on this section so as to avoid a broken ankle or two! The Falcon Clints that edge Widdybank Fell are a great mask for Couldron Snout blocking out both the view and the sound but all of a sudden the curtain comes back and there it is!
High Cup Nick looks out over High Cup Gill and the most amazing U shaped valley. If the weather and time are kind to you sit and marvel at this sight as it will stay with you forever.
Dufton the start of the Teesdale Way and The Stag Inn
Dufton to Garrigill takes you up Little and Great Dunn Fells and up to the highest point in the Pennines Cross Fell before descending with large amounts of fools gold in your rucksac to be greeted in Garrigill with The George & Dragon. This is a long section of the Pennine Way with no natural break other than Dufton and Garrigill so take your time and plan to have lots of energy for this days walking.
The church use to let you sleep on its pews for a small donation. Its very spooky? and the trees rattle against the windows!
Alston
Whiteley Castle Roman Fort
Slaggyford DON'T GO IN THE KIRKSTYLE INN during the annual sheep dog trials. Great night but I still can't remember what happen to my socks? They were posted back to my MOTHER washed!
from Burnstones the Pennine Way picks up a much older walk the Maiden Way a Roman Road linking Kirkby Thore in Cumbria with Carvoran a Roman fort close to Hadrian's Wall. The way edges the eastern flank of Glendue Fell and Hartley Burn Common, the southern side! following a fence on the right.
Cross the A689 and the old mineral railway to arrive at the disused Lambley Colliery with its cottage and air shaft the only remnents of past production.
Barn at High House dropping down to cross the footbridge over Hartley Burn before a steady climb up through the farms at Ulpham, Baty's Shield and Greenriggs onto Round Hill and Hartley Burn Common, the northern side!
Wain Rigg and the ruin of Eadleystone
A69(T) into Greenhead
The Pennine Way circumnavigates Greenhead joining Hadrian's Wall and the Hadrian's Wall Path to Thirlwell Castle.
Thirlwell Castle is the point where the Pennine Way crosses into the Northumberland National Park
Roman Army Museum at Carvoran
Burnhead
Cawfield Crags
Caw Gap
Windshields Crags
At the remains of Turret 398 you have to leave the Pennine Way and Hadrian's Wall Path if you require the Once Brewed . Just follow the road south past Peel and can't miss it.
Crag Lough and Hotbanks Crag
At Turret 37A the paths depart and the Pennine Way heads north again although if you haven't been to Housesteads its worth the short detour to take in this magnificent Roman Fort.
Views of Greenlee and Brownlee Loughs to the left and right repectively as you head for the southern section of Wark Forest
Houghton Common
Warks Burn
Horneystead Farm
Waterfall on the Blacka Burn at Lowstead.
From here the Pennine Way follows a tarmac road. At the first junction go left and this will take you down to a T junction. The way goes straight across leaving the tar behind down to a footbridge over the Houxly Burn.
Shitlington Hall
Shitlington Crag Farm and Crags
Ealingham Rigg past the relay station
along the B6320 into Bellingham
ellingham
If you've stayed in the Youth Hostel then you've got a flying start in the morning because it's on the way out north. As the road turns right with Bellingham's water reservoir on the corner take the farm road up to Blakelaw.
Hareshaw House
Cross the B6320 road and head up and over the moor to Whitley Pike.
Padon Hill monument
Brown Rigg Head
Blakehopeburnhaugh
Byrness
From Byrness the Pennine Way takes the direct approach to climb Byrness Hill straight up through a forest ride and breaking out of the woods right at the top. From here the way keeps the forest on its left and climbs Houx Hill, Ravens Knowle and Orge Hill before descending to cross the border into Scotland.
This is a brief encounter with Scotland as the walk makes a misterious U turn and heads back over into England to visit the Medieval village of Kemylpethe together with a series of Roman Camps and Fortlet . The route leaves via Dere Street Roman road to Black Halls where they depart the Pennine Way opting to stay on the English side of the border for the time being.
Past the Mountain Rescue Hut, taking in Lamb Hill, Beefstand Hill, Mozie Law, Windy Gyle and Russell's Cairn and King's Seat the path goes ever upward following the border line with magnificent views across the border country.
Beyond the "Hanging Stone" the way leaves the border for Cairn Hill and "The Cheviot" 815m on top of a peat bog but what a peat bog. This is a wonderful place despite its lack of grandeur. There is nowhere higher than "The Cheviot" between it and Kirk Yetholm. You can't see the end put you can smell it!!!
Having taken in this achievement for a while return back DOWN to the border and continue along and down to the Mountain Rescue Hut and Red Cribs. Remember this could be a very long day. You may wish to break it at this point and set out afresh in the morning especially as there's a climb ahead!
The Schill at 601m offers great views north
Piper's Faulds Settlement
Burnhead Farm and tarmac
Staerough Hill hides the finish but its close over a small climb and into Kirk Yetholm.
The Border Hotel in Kirk Yetholm YH .
You may realise by now that I have experienced the delights of the Pennine Way several times and yes I am old enough to have been able to get a complimentry pint on Wainwright and I agree with what he said
"You will be a better man because you have walked the Pennine Way. Well Done!"