This is not meant to be the definitive route for the crossing. In fact as the 'founder' of the route points out in his book, there is no such thing as a definitive route. The aim of the walk is to go from one coast of England to the opposite using public rights of way and areas of open access. This format leaves plenty of options for individuals to vary the route to suit their own preferences.
The route I shall describe is the one described by Wainwright in his book and the one that the vast majority of people choose to follow. My description will not be full enough to follow without the use of maps or other guides and it is strongly recommended that you obtain these before starting the walk. As well as maps you should take Wainwright's 'A COAST TO COAST WALK' with you. Apart from giving a full and accurate description of his route it contains a vast amount of background information and it will keep you amused for hours. You should in fact buy and read this book through at the planning stage of your walk.
The walk starts from the sea wall at St. Bees in front of the hotel and car park and heads north past the caravan and campsite before turning west and following a path alongside a continuous fence along the cliff top and across several stiles before reaching Fleswick Bay. At Fleswick Bay it is advisable to make a slight detour inland around the gash in the cliff and then back to the 'proper' path. This saves a steep descent and ascent of the cliffs and also saves time as well as energy. If you have plenty of time and energy, then do make the descent because the scenery is certainly worth the effort.
Follow the path along the cliff and after crossing three more stiles you come to St. Bees Lighthouse. From here a private road, with access for walkers, runs to Sandwith. Unfortunately Wainwright chose to ignore this and instead the path you want goes in a much more round-about route to reach the same point. From the lighthouse follow the path along the cliff top and after another 1½ miles you come to the eyesore of a disused quarry. Go past the two cottages into a sunken lane and then when you reach the private road you left at the light house follow it to your left and into the village of Sandwith. You have now covered almost 4½ miles and if you had gone by road from the start to here the distance would only have been 1½ miles. This as you will very quickly learn as you travel along this walk is one of the vagaries of Wainwright.
At the crossroads turn left and follow the road as it rises to Lanehead and pass straight across at the next crossroads. Continue along this lane as far as Demesne Farm and pass through the yard to reach the St Bees to Whitehaven road. Cross it and go along the lane opposite to pass Bell House and reach the point shortly afterwards where the path forks. Take the left hand fork which leads to a gate. Don't go through the gate but follow the path keeping the hedge on your left to reach the railway line. Pass under the line and cut across the field ahead to the fence. Follow this to the left and continue along the side of the hedge to the field corner, where there is a stile on the right. Cross the stile and head to the top of the next field where a gate gives access to a cart-track going uphill and under a railway bridge to reach the A595. Cross the road and go down the road opposite (Scalegill Road) to the village centre. Turn right here on the Egremont road and follow this to just after the first rise where you will see a stile on your left. Cross this stile and follow the path which crosses the railway line and brings you out in Church Street, Cleator.
Church Street leads into the main street which you need to follow to your left for 60 yards before turning right down Kiln Brow. Follow this downhill and at the bottom turn right again to reach Blackhow Bridge over the River Eden, cross the bridge and go up the lane to Black How Farm. Opposite the farm is an iron gate giving access toa cart track which climbs the fell; this is the route you need to take. After a short while the cart track peters out but it is an easy task to follow the route as the path runs up alongside a crumbling wall to the summit of Dent and its cairn. Continue on in the same direction and after crossing a fence follow the eastern ridge of Dent until you come to a piece of forestry that crosses your path. At this point aim for the passage to the right and where you will come to a forestry road which you need to follow to your left to continue the descent of the eastern ridge. As you approach Raven Crag follow a path that runs off to your right and descends to the valley bottom. On reaching the floor of the valley and its stream turn left and follow the stream up the narrowing valley to its head. At this point turn right a take the path that cuts up to the road near Kinniside stone circle. On reaching the road turn left and follow it for the 1½ miles into Ennerdale Bridge.
This section sees the start of Lakeland proper with its vast open fells, its beautiful crags and hills and its magnificent scenery. You are about to start the best three sections of the entire walk.
Leave Ennerdale Bridge via the Croasdale road and after about ½ a mile turn right along a forestry road which after a couple of sharp bends crosses a bridge over the River Eden and then passes a pumping station before reaching Ennerdale Water. (Don't even think of having a swim; apart from upsetting the water authorities the water is bloody freezing.) Turn right and follow the footpath round the lake to the headland of Angler's Crag. At this point the path used to degenerate into a rock scramble over loose boulders but nowadays with more hikers using the path their boots have worn a rough trod through the debris; but care still needs to be taken as it is still easy to twist or break an ankle. After rounding Angler's Crag the walking becomes easy again as you go through three walls to reach the head of Ennerdale Water.
From the head of the lake a green path is taken alongside a wall which is crossed via a gap to walk along its north side to reach a foot-bridge. Beyond this a forestry road is followed up the valley between the trees. These trees stretch in front of you for another 3 miles. After coming out of the forestry you come to Black Sail Hut (a youth hostel) which you pass and follow the path that follows the contour of the hill to reach Loft Beck. Cross the beck and turn sharp right to climb steeply up the hillside. At the top of the beck the slope gets easier; the path continues straight ahead through the Brandreth fence and contours along to meet a path that comes down from Great Gable on your right. This well worn path is followed to the ruins of Drum House where you turn right along the old tramway and descend steeply to the road at Honister Pass near the youth hostel. Turn right along the road towards Borrowdale. Use the old toll road (which is signed) to reach Seatoller. At Seatoller pass between the houses before turning off at a car park on your left to an old walled lane beyond. This in its turn leads to a path which contours the hillside to reach the youth hostel at Longthwaite. Beyond the youth hostel turn left and cross the Derwent by a bridge to a lane on the opposite side. Turn between the buildings on the left to follow the field path into the village of Rosthwaite.
The village of Rosthwaite is the ideal place to call a halt to the day. It has been a long day to reach this point and you will be ready for rest. There are several alternatives as to accommodation but after such a fine days walking why not treat yourself to a night at the Scafell Hotel. This is probably the best hotel that you will come across on the entire Coast to Coast Walk. This hotel is the perfect place to pamper yourself after a hard day and to relax you before another good days walking tomorrow. Check it out. You will not be disappointed.
Cross the bridge over Stonethwaite Beck and turn right to follow the lane leading to fields and Stonethwaite Bridge. Continue up the valley along a gated cart-track keeping the beck to your right. When you meet Langstrath Beck coming in for your right make sure you follow the good path that continues straight ahead up Greenup Gill. The path gradually climbs the hillside to reach the top of Lining Crag via a steep stony gully to the left. After reaching the top of Lining Crag the slope gets easier as it climbs to Greenup Edge. The path here becomes more indistinct but follow the row of cairns keeping to the right. After reaching the summit the path continues down the other side to another pass at the head of Far Easedale. At the valley head turn left by the old fence and follow the narrow track over Calf Crag via a small tarn on your left. After Calf Crag the path continues round the edge of the escarpment to Gibson Knott. The path through Gibson Knott is both winding and undulating but easy to follow and after a short descent you come to the short ascent to the rocky summit of Helm Crag. From the summit of Helm Crag follow the path leading down to your right to the Easedale valley and a tarmac road. Turn left along this road and follow it into Grasmere with its hoard of culture seeking tourists.
Although Grasmere is a very pleasant little village the number of tourists will soon pall and you will be glad to be on your way once again.
The way to leave Grasmere is via the A591 road towards Keswick. This road is followed for a mile to Mill Bridge. Here turn right and follow the track signposted 'Helvellyn & Patterdale'. Follow this track up through trees alongside a beck until you come to a confluence of two streams at the bottom of Great Tongue. At this point bear left and follow a pony track up the long tedious ascent of Little Tongue. Just as the climb gets steeper the path bends round to the right and contours the hill above some rocks before starting an undulating climb to amid stones to the top of Grisedale Pass. Cross the summit of the pass at an old wall and descend the path to Grisedale Tarn 1 mile hence. Follow the path to the right to the point where Grisedale Beck enters it. Cross the beck and follow the path to the foot of Tarn Crag. The path at this point splits into three, all routes eventually coming down to Patterdale. The path on the left ascends Helvellyn, the path on the right goes via St. Sunday Crag and the path I am going to outline is the direct route and goes straight ahead.
The path bears right beneath Tarn Crag to pass Ruthwaite Lodge and reach Ruthwaite Beck where it turns right and follows the beck to its confluence with Grisedale Beck. Cross Grisedale Beck and follow the path through trees running alongside the beck to the farm at Elmhow. Just beyond the farm the path turns into a cart-track and then ½ mile further on it becomes a tarmac road and you will probably see cars parked in a field and this is where the path from Helvellyn rejoins the route. 350 yards further on past a plantation a gate on the right gives access to a path leading down through Glenmara Park to Patterdale and emerging near the Post Office.
This is the last stage in the Lake District so make the most of it. There is nothing else on this walk that comes remotely close to matching it.
Take the Kirkstone Pass road out of Patterdale and at the first bridge turn left to reach some houses at the other side of the valley. Here turn left then almost immediately right to reach the open fell up which a short scramble leads to a good path which you follow to the right. On reaching a seat the track splits and you need to take the right hand, lower one which climbs steadily to Boardale House. At this point there are several tracks but the one you want is the lower track which passes a sheepfold and then swings to the right and enters a shallow ravine to reach Dubhow Beck. At this point the path again splits and you need to take the lower one again which swings round below Angletarn Pikes to reach Angle Tarn. Skirt round the tarn and follow the path that leads off towards Satura Crag. From Satura Crag the path drops down slightly to cross a wet, peaty stretch before starting the dreary trudge up to the foot of and round The Knott. After rounding The Knott things begin to improve when you reach the Straits of Riggindale . At this point you need to turn left and go past the foot of Twopenny Crag and follow the path round below Rampsgill Head and on to the summit of Kidsty Pike. If it is a nice clear day turn round and spend a few minutes looking at the view behind you. It is magnificent with all the Lakeland peaks on show.
The descent from Kidsty is simple as a cairned track goes down the eastern ridge past Kidsty Howes. From this point the path gets steeper and becomes a little more difficult. Bear slightly left towards Randale Beck and you will pick up an old drove road. Follow this down until it crosses the beck. At this point leave the drove road and follow the stream down on the west bank to a bridge at the foot of the slope. At the bridge you will pick up a man-made footpath which you follow to the left for the next 4 miles around Haweswater Reservoir to Burn Banks just beyond the head of the water.
The route now becomes more difficult to follow. Form Burn Bridge bear left to the road junction and turn right. After 120 yards cross a stile in the wall on the left and head for another stile in the corner of the field which leads onto a lane heading for Park Bridge. A cart- track to the left aims for Low Park but after the 2nd gate go up the field sharp right to High Park and continue along this path to Rawhead and the Swindale Road. Cross the open land ahead, bearing left to Rosgill Bridge. From this point it is easier and quicker to ignore Wainwright and follow the road for the 2 miles into Shap. The path that Wainwright proposes is indistinct and extremely difficult to follow and, unless something has been done since I was last across there, detours have to be made off public rights of way and onto private land because of deliberate blockages in your path.
Shap close to the M6 motorway marks the eastern boundary of the Lake District as far as the high peaks and open fells are concerned. From this point on the walk does have its odd moment of interest and beauty but nothing comes close to matching the grandeur and the beauty of the last three sections. Relax a while in Shap and reflect on what you have achieved so far for on leaving Shap the rest of the crossing is somewhat of an anti-climax.
Shap is left via a road directly opposite the Kings Arms which leads to a housing estate. Here turn right and follow the lane leading to a bridge which crosses the railway lines before going on between walls and passing under an electric cable before coming to a fork. At this point you need to take the right hand path and cross three fields. The way on the ground is indistinct but a series of stiles makes the way obvious. After crossing the fields you will come to a footbridge crossing the motorway. Cross the footbridge and keep alongside the fence to the right until you come to a copse of hawthorn where you should pick up a faint path bearing left and leading uphill to a gate at The Nab (a farmhouse).Go through this gate and cross the road into the field opposite. Follow the path across this field keeping the limestone scar to your left until you come to a wall and a quarry. The path crosses the quarry access road and continues on straight in front of you across the field opposite towards some trees you will be able to see. When you reach the trees you will see that they hide the hamlet of Oddendale and a wall. Turn right on reaching this wall and follow the cart-track due south over open land. After a short while you come to a stone enclosure and you need to pass this to the left and continue on for about 200 yards before bearing half left to pass the corner of another stone enclosure and cutting across open pasture to a wooden stake and a tumulus on the skyline. At this point you need to Head in a slightly more southerly direction once more to head down to the right of a limestone scar and a huge granite boulder to the Lyvennet Beck. After crossing this beck the path soon becomes much clearer as it heads to join the wall on your left. Follow this path and wall over the slight rise and down past Robin Hood's Grave until the wall turns sharply away to your left. At this point you continue straight ahead past yet another stone enclosure to join a road in the vicinity of another quarry. On reaching the road cross it then bear left round the corner of another enclosure and then turn right down a very well defined dry valley which eventually leads you to a road junction. Go down the road straight in front of you and follow it for a little over 1½ miles into the village of Orton.
Orton is a nice little village with shops and a hotel. After reaching Orton I recommend that you partake of a little beverage before continuing the walk; for after Orton you have quite a stretch of tarmac to cover; as if the last 1½ miles were not enough. This long road section was brought about by the actions of a few mindless cretins a few years back. The route used to go from the end of the dry valley over Beacon Hill to Sunbiggin Tarn crossing private land where no right of way existed, but where the farmers were happy enough to allow us right of passage. Unfortunately a few thoughtless people thought it was their right to damage property, camp and light fires where they felt like it and so the right of passage was withdrawn causing the route to be diverted along the road via Orton and adding an extra two miles to the walk and extending the length of tarmac from 6 yards to 6 miles.
Follow the road through Orton and when you come to the fork in the road bear left towards Raisbeck . Once through Raisbeck the road forks once again and again you need to take the left hand fork; this time heading towards Little Asby. After another 2½ miles you will come to a cattle grid alongside Sunbiggin Tarn. You will be glad to see this as it marks the point where the path and the road separate. Cross the cattle grid and immediately leave the road to walk on a path to your right between the road and the tarn. Follow this path for about 600 yards until you come to a spring. Turn right at this point and head towards a wall not far ahead of you. Cross the stile and continue across the marshy ground to Rayseat Pike with its easily distinguishable long barrow. After passing the barrow the path continues straight ahead to descend to the Newbiggin road at a cattle grid. Cross the road and follow the path that runs alongside a wall to your left. The path follows the wall all the way along apart from one little kink where you need to detour slightly to avoid Ewefell Mire. Near the end of the wall is a gate you need to go through. Once through turn immediately right and follow the wall on your right past a barn and past Bent's Farm. About half a mile past Bent's Farm you come to a point where two walls meet. Go through the gate here and follow the wall on your right until you come to a stile in the wall. Cross the stile. Follow the path over the ridge ahead and then descend to the Smardale valley. Just before which you pass a small tarn on your left. Just beyond is a gate which you go through to cross the dis-used railway line and turn right to follow the path into Smardale Bridge.
Cross Smardale bridge and continue on up the cart-track between walls. When the wall on your left bends round to the left near the Giants graves you turn left with it. Follow the wall and go through a gate in a cross wall in front of you. Continue to follow the path alongside the wall for a little over ½ mile to a point where the wall again bends away to your left. This time you continue straight on to meet another wall. Bear slightly right and continue on with the wall on your left to pass some old lime kilns and go through a gate onto a minor road. Turn right along this road, turn left down the Waitby road and follow it to the second gate on your right. Turn right through this gate and follow the path through the pasture to a barn on your left. Bear left and follow the path through an underpass beneath the railway. Cross the field to a stile in the right hand corner opposite and enter the larger pasture over the wall. Follow the path across this past some limestone outcrops and some larch trees to reach a gate giving access to two underpasses beneath the disused railway line. Go through Green Rigg Farm beyond to join the lane which is followed down all the way to Kirby Stephen a mile ahead.
From the market place of Kirby Stephen take a by-way east to Frank's bridge; a footbridge over the Rive Eden. Once across the river turn right and follow it and an ascent up a field and a short lane lead to Hartley. Cross the footbridge to the road and follow this to the right ,uphill past quarries for 1½ miles to a sign-post pointing the way to Nine Standards Rigg which you follow along a bridle-way which is easy to follow over rough moorland to the rigg itself. From Nine Standards Rigg aim for the grassy rise of White Mossy Hill to the south. From the summit of this hill head due south to a rough shelter just over ½ mile hence. From here bear half left and descend S.E. to a pillar of stones at Millstones. After Millstones continue along the path in the same direction for another mile to a shooting hut near the beck at Ney Gill. Turn left and follow the path in the direction of Ney Gill to a gate near a barn. Turn right and cross the beck via the ford and continue up the rise opposite. At the top of the rise turn left and follow the minor road down into Raven Seat. Go across two bridges to some cottages up on the right and a gate leads to a path on the eastern bank of the beck. Follow this path through several fields and over How edge Scars to Oven Mouth. Here the path becomes indistinct and you need to contour round above the beck and past an enormous sheep-fold to drop down eventually to Smithy Holme Farm. Turn left and follow the track past another farm and into a lane which leads down to cross the River Swale and join the B6270. Just before joining the road turn left and follow the footpath which runs along below Cotterby Scar and emerges at a sharp bend in the Tan Hill to Keld road. Turn right and follow this all the way down to the village of Keld. When you come out onto the road on the bend you will come across a sign-post that claims that Keld is only a quarter mile away. Don't believe it !!! it's a damned sight more than that.
Leave Keld via a signposted lane for Kisdon Force opposite what used to be the village Post Office (now defunct) and after about 300 yards a path marked by a Pennine Way sign leads down to the left to reach a footbridge over the Swale. Cross this and go up the field opposite to cross another bridge, this time over East Gill Force. Continue along the cart-track opposite for ½ mile to the ruins of Crackpot Hall. Skirt round the wall behind the ruins and continue on another cart-track until you come to a gate. From here a narrower path continues above the rift of Swinner Gill to reach a bridge and some ruins. Pass the ruins and continue on the narrow track along the north bank of the stream up East Grain to its head where you will come to a sheepfold. The path continues straight on but becomes faint in places as you cross some marshy ground, but it does improve after you pass a shooting hut on your right. Continue on this path and as you descend you pass a cairn and a sheepfold on your left. Just after the sheepfold the path turns right towards Gunnerside but you leave it by bearing slightly left and following a very faint track that goes down the north side of the hush in front of you. ( a hush is a narrow ravine caused by the release of water in the old mining processes ). At the bottom of the hush you will come to a good path . Turn left along this until you come to the ruins of Blakethwaite Smelting Mill. Turn right and cross the beck to some ruins on the opposite bank. Climb the steep grassy bank to reach a green path and follow it to the right. The path now follows the east bank of Gunnerside beck for a short stretch. When the path starts to descend do not follow it down but bear half left and climb the stony wasteland in front of you keeping the hushes to the left and follow the path along the line of a broken wall for 1½ miles to Level House Bridge. Cross the beck and turn right along a track running alongside the beck through what appears to be a lunar landscape (the remains of mining). Follow this track for 1½ miles past Old Gang Smelt Mill to Surrender Bridge. At Surrender Bridge you go through a gate and cross the Arkengarthdale road to follow a signposted 'public footpath' to the ruins of yet another smelt mill. Here you need to bear half left and the path is indistinct; but you should head for the left edge of the green field that you can see ahead. Just before you reach this field the deep ravine of Cringly Bottom bars your way. Look for a stile in the wall just above the field and aim for this. Be careful; the descent into and the climb out of the ravine is steep and the beck in the bottom can be difficult to cross. Once you have managed to squeeze through the stile the going gets a lot easier. Follow the path along the wall until it turns sharply left away from you. From here continue straight ahead to the ruins of an old barn in an enclosure. Pass this keeping it to your left. Now take the higher of the two paths you meet and follow this. It soon develops into a cart-track and you follow it down to Thirn's Farm. Here turn left briefly to head uphill in front of a cottage and follow a good path over more desolation above some intake walls until you at last come near to another farm. This one you avoid by keeping well to the left and following the path across open ground and rounding a wall corner to enter a gated lane that descends between walls to join the B6270. Turn left along this road and after ½ mile you are in Reeth and can now enjoy a richly deserved pint in one of the several excellent pubs.
Take the Richmond road out of Reeth and follow it through Framlington until the road turns sharply south. At this point you bear left and follow the by-road towards Marske for ½ mile until the road bends sharply left. At this point your way goes almost straight ahead through a gate sign-posted Marrick Priory and along a well worn farm road. Follow this farm road for the 1¾ miles to Marrick Priory. At this point leave the farm road in favour of a grass track which leads up to a wicket gate giving access to some woods. Follow the flagged path through the woods and you will come out into a field via another wicket gate. Cross this field and follow the path between a chapel and a church to enter Marrick ¼ mile hence.
At the far end of the village where the road turns north take the small lane on your right to pass a barn and a farmhouse. Then through some gates bear left along the line of a hedge to a stile in the stone wall directly ahead of you. A series of fields now follows and although there is no visible path the direction of your route is obvious from the line of stiles. After crossing a 'road' the path descends through more fields, via gates and stiles to Ellers Beck. Pass round the house to a footbridge and cross it. Ascend the bank ahead and aim diagonally across the field towards a gate in the far corner and then continue in the same direction to another and the farm road to Hollings. Go through the wire fence by way of a gate on the right and then follow the line of a wall to cross the fence agin to a gate on the right from where you take a coarse diagonally across the field to join the Marske to Reeth road. Turn right along this road and follow it for the ¾ mile into the village of Marske.
At the T-junction opposite the Post Office turn right and follow the road for 300 yards and then on a bend turn right through a gate signposted public footpath; though the path is invisible in most parts. Aim half left from the gate and pass through gaps in three hedges in succession, then a stile in a fence and keeping on in the same direction you will come to a footbridge crossing Clapgate Beck. Cross the footbridge and climb steeply up the banking opposite aiming for the electricity pole between fenced enclosures. After passing this electricity pole you will come to a good farm-track which contours the hill; you need to turn right along this track and follow it until it passes through West Applegarth Farm. At this point the track ends and you need to aim for the solitary barn you can see ahead. Go through the gate adjoining the barn and then cross the stile just ahead, to enter a pasture beyond. Again there is no visible path but your route lies in the direction of the stiles in the walls ahead. These contour the hill and keep above some farm buildings until you come to a barn at High Applegarth. From this point you follow a farm-track to East Applegarth Farm and on into Whitcliff Wood. On emerging from Whitcliff Wood the track rises slightly and passes High Leases before becoming a tarmac road. Follow this road down Westfields and you are in the market town of Richmond.
If you are in need of accommodation, supplies and refreshment; or if you are interested in history, then Richmond is an excellent place to be for it can cater for all the aforementioned. If you need none of these things then leave Richmond immediately; for it must be the coldest place in England both climatically and hospitality wise.
From the south west corner of the market place drop steeply down hill to Richmond Bridge and cross the River Swale. Turn right and follow the river downstream on the south bank past playing fields to a point where the path forks in some woods. Here take the upper branch and proceed to a stile in a fence. After crossing two more stiles you will come out at Priory Villas and the A 6136. Turn right and follow the road for ½ mile until you come to a sharp bend in the road. At this point turn left and follow the private road to the sewage works. After passing a house keep to the right of the works fence to a stile which gives access to a wood. The path leads through the wood alongside the river to a footbridge over a side stream. If you cannot find the bridge don't be too surprised for the last time I was there it was in a terrible state of decay and about ready to disintegrate. If you do find it be careful; it is probably a whole lot safer to ford the stream than to cross the bridge; wet socks being easier repaired than broken bones. Return to the riverside path and follow it until a cliff bars further progress. Bear right and follow the path up through the trees to the cliff top and a stile in the fence. At this point the path disappears but ahead of you is Hagg Farm and this is what you are aiming towards. Pass round the farm buildings and you will come to a farm track. Follow the track for the length of the first field only before turning right along the public right of way. Again the path is almost invisible but the route you need to take is made obvious by a line of stiles across the fields; and by following this line you will eventually come out into the village of Colburn The village is entered by following the path along the stream until you come to a stile giving access to a lane. Follow the lane to its end and cross the green to the village street and the Hildyard Arms. A much superior hostelry to any found in Richmond. If you have time and it is open pay it a visit, I would.
Go through the village to the end of the street. From here the path crosses private land for a short time so be especially careful about not causing any damage or nuisance. At the farm at the end of the street go to the right of the farm and through the farmyard and then turn left through an iron gate. You now join a farm track and follow it through two fields; then in the third field leave it to bear left to the corner where a bridleway is joined. Follow the bridleway through trees and across a stile and a little further on you will come to an access road to St. Giles Farm. You follow this road for just 100 yards before turning left and following a fence through trees alongside the river. After crossing two fields the path joins a fenced lane which you follow to Thornbrough Farm.
Ahead of you now is one of the most depressing sights on the whole walk; the A1 and its endless stream of traffic. Head down the hill to the bridge where the A1 crosses the river and pass under the bridge (prepare to be deafened) and then under another bridge; this one carrying a disused railway line; to come to a busy road junction at Catterick Bridge. The most noticeable feature of Catterick Bridge is the racecourse and on race-days this road junction is extremely busy.
Turn left and leave the village by way of the bridge over the Swale. Immediately over the bridge turn right and cross the stile to join the footpath and follow it for 1 mile until you come to a gravel works blocking your way. Enter these works and turn immediately left to join a road (B6271). Turn right and follow this road until you come to a fenced lane on your left signposted 'Tilcon'. Follow this lane for about ¼ mile and then turn left along another fenced lane towards Bolton-on-Swale whose church steeple can be seen straight ahead from the lane junction. This church being your immediate objective.
Follow the lane towards the church and after about ½ mile you will come to the village of Bolton-on-Swale. On arrival at Bolton-on-Swale cross the B6271 and head for the church and turn down the side road. Pass the house and immediately afterwards cross the stile at the side of the gate. The footpath now follows the side of Bolton beck until it reaches the access road to Laylands Farm. Turn left along this road and then turn right through the next gate to skirt round the edge of the field to reach the road at Ellerton Hill.
Now starts the worst stretch of the whole walk; in fact is the worst section of walking on any walk that I know. From Ellerton Hill you now have 8 miles of continuous road walking without even a short stroll across a field. If you can arrange a lift from someone then I recommend that you do so. Unfortunately this area of Yorkshire is poorly served by public transport and there is no possibility of catching a bus.
On reaching the road at Ellerton Hill turn left and begin the long dreary trudge. After 5¼ miles you will eventually come to the village of Danby Wiske. Danby Wiske is a pleasant little village at the best of times but after all the road-work it seems even more inviting than normal. At the side of the village green their is a the welcoming sight of the inn; a place that is definately worth a visit. The beer on my last visit was of an exceedingly high quality.
There is still more road-work to go but don't worry the worst of it is over and if you have been fortunate enough to have had a pint or two the remaining 2½ miles will seem to fly by. Follow the road for another 2 miles until you come to the A167 Darlington to Northallerton road and then turn left. After about 600 yards, after passing through Oaktree Hill you will come to a grassy lane on your right. Take this. This grassy lane soon becomes another road but shortly after it turns left towards Deighton you turn right along a farm access road to Moor House Farm. From here you follow a footpath across fields past Brompton Moor Farm to Northfield House Farm. Now go down the access road and cross the cattle grid to join the A684 and turn right. After a short distance turn left along another farm access road, this time leading to Wray House Farm. Now follow the path across stiles, a railway line and Ing beck to pass Harlsey Grove Farm to emerge into Low Moor Lane. Follow this lane down to its junction with the West Rounton to East Harlsey road. Diagonally opposite is a drive/access road to Sydal Lodge. Go along this drive and past the farm. Pass through the gates directly ahead and follow the path down to and across the footbridge over the River Wiske (River being a rather grand title for the sluggish little brook that normally runs beneath the bridge). From the bridge follow the path up to the ruins of Brecken Hill Farm and join the farm track that zig-zags between fields before bringing you out at the side of the A19.
At this point be very careful. After the country roads you have recently had to navigate this road is extremely busy and crossing it can be hazardous. It would be a shame to have walked all this way just to be run over within a couple of days of Robin Hoods Bay.
After crossing the busy A19 follow the road in front of you into the village of Ingleby Arncliffe. Follow the road a little further and it brings you to the A172 and Ingleby Cross. Or more relevant to the majority of walkers it brings you to the Blue Bell Inn at Ingleby Cross. Enjoy your pint you've earned it. Get a good nights rest for tomorrow the walking proper starts again.
An early start is recommended if you have spent the night at Ingleby Cross; not because of the difficulty of the terrain nor the length of the next leg; but simply because if you are like me and my friends when we did the crossing, it is too easy to fall prey to the hospitality of mine host at the Blue Bell Inn and spend an extra day and a lot of hard earned pennies within the said premises.
From Ingleby Cross take the side road that leads past the Inn ( keep going, don't be tempted) and is signposted Arncliffe Hall and Church. Pass both of these buildings and a farm and follow the rough road until it turns sharp right. At this point go through the gate on your left and continue straight ahead to another gate giving access to a forest track. Turn right along this track and follow it for 1 mile to the forest boundary. At this point turn sharp left and follow another track signposted moors path that slants away uphill. At this point you join another walk, The Cleveland Way, whose route you share for the next 14 miles.
Follow the track up through scrub to the a wicket gate and pass through it. Continue along the path with the fence on your left and the wall on your right and you will pass a TV booster station before arriving at a trig. point at the summit of Beacon Hill. This is the traditional start of the Lyke Wake Walk; and to qualify for membership of the Lyke Wake Club the crossing has to be completed within 24 hours. If you wish you can finish your Coast to Coast by doing the Lyke Wake or if you are not so masochistic you can take a little longer and follow the traditional route to the end. The choice is yours but what a way to finish !! You don't have to make up your mind yet as to which way you are going to complete the walk for the routes are identical for the next 20½ miles.
Follow the path from the trig. point down to and through a gate onto Scarth Wood Moor from where the path heads downhill; gently at first then ever more steeply until you reach the cattle grid and road at Scarth Nick. Cross the road and go through the gate opposite onto a path leading through the forestry and signposted for the Lyke Wake. After following this path for ½ mile you will see on your left the remains of a spoil heap. Turn left and drop sharply down Lime Kiln Bank; taking especial care if the weather is wet. This bank although short is extremely steep and in wet weather can be very slippery. In recent times steps have been cut in the side of the bank but don't be too complacent. At the bottom of the bank turn sharp right before passing through the gate and follow the path along the bottom edge of the forestry. The path is clear and easy to follow. After ¾ mile in a fence on your left you will see a stile leading into a grassy field. (There may or may not be a LWW sign depending on whether or not it has been stolen again.) Cross this stile and head diagonally across the field to the gate in the bottom right hand corner. Go through the gate and into the lane beyond before turning left and crossing the ford and following the lane to the crossroads at the end. At the crossroads go straight across and along the lane at the side of the telephone box. (If you have any calls to make , make them from here for it is a long walk to the next call-box). Follow the lane for a short distance until it reaches the tree-line of a small plantation. Turn left through the gate and follow the path alongside a wire fence and through another gate into a field. Keep close to the fence and follow the path to another gate which gives access to the steep climb known locally as the Sheep Drift. Like Lime Kiln Bank this may be a short climb but again it is extremely steep and in wet weather it used to be almost impossible to ascend; but steps have been cut into the left hand side much to the relief of many hikers. Normally I am not in favour of altering the landscape in any way but in this case I am forced to admit that the measures were necessary, not only in the interest of safety but to help negate the amount of erosion on this section of a very busy part of the moors.
At the top of the Sheep Drift cross the stile and follow the path round to the left. The path is very clear (thousands of feet tramp across it on the Lyke Wake each year) as it climbs steadily towards the summit plateau of Live Moor. From Live Moor just follow the path along to Carlton Moor. Carlton Moor is the home of the Newcastle and Teesside Gliding Club and the top of the moor has been scraped off to make an airfield for them. Whatever you think of the ethics of this do not be tempted to cut across the airfield to the road opposite (your next destination) for they do not take kindly to trespassers and a glider can give you a bloody awful headache if it hits you on the back of the head. Instead keep to the path along the escarpment until you come to the spoil heaps of some alum works overlooking the road. At this point turn left and follow the path down to the junction of the road and the access road to the airfield.
Climb the wire fence opposite by way of the stile and your route is obvious as it cuts a swathe through the grass in front of you heading straight ahead and climbing up Cringle Moor. Follow the track and as it starts to climb you will come to the remains of a wall and a path leading off to your left. The "traditional" route lies straight ahead but if the weather is inclement or the you are tired the path to your left is by far the safest and easiest to take. If you do turn left route finding is easy as the path just contours round the side of three hills to bring you out at the foot of Hasty Bank onto the road at Clay Bank Top. Although the walking is easy it can get a bit wet in places but there are no real problems. Do not however be tempted to bear left onto one of the forestry roads.
For those who want to stay with the "traditional" route your path is clear in front of you. Just follow your nose up the long drag to the summit of Cringle Moor. If the weather is being kind there are some magnificent views from Cringle and to help you identify what you are seeing a view indicator has been 'planted' on Cringle End.
From Cringle End the path leads east around the edge of the escarpment before dropping sharply almost 300 feet to some dry-stone wall enclosures. Skirt round these and pass through the gate. The path now rises steeply to regain the 300 feet you have just dropped and reach the summit of Cold Moor. A well named place in anything less than perfect weather conditions. From the summit cairn of Cold Moor history repeats itself as you once again drop steeply down 300 feet to some more dry stone wall enclosures. After passing through the enclosures the path once again climbs steeply to regain the height just lost. As you approach the summit plateau of Hasty Bank you pass through some rock stacks and pinnacles; these are the Wainstones, a well known local feature and popular climbing area. After scrambling up through the Wainstones (easy) the path follows the northern escarpment of Hasty plateau for about ¾ mile before descending steeply and diagonally toa stile in the wall abutting the forestry. Cross this stile and another one immediately afterwards to join a forestry track (the one that skirts the hills from the beginning of Cringle). Turn right and go down the steps to join the B1257 Helmsley to Stokesley road.
This undistinguished looking piece of road is Clay Bank Top. If you turn left and follow the road for ¼ mile you may be lucky enough to find the cafe open; but don't lay too much money on it unless it is a nice sunny day in the middle of summer. Also be very careful; this road is very busy and the path brings you out on a bend where your view is severely restricted.
Cross the road and go through the gate opposite. Follow the path uphill keeping the wall to your left. Do not make the mistake of going up the forestry track on the opposite side of the wall. The path climbs steeply and passes through a cleft in the rocks; which can become very slippery in wet weather; and continues up to the stone wall near the top of the hill. Follow the old pony track keeping the wall to your left. At the end of the wall bear left and follow a broad track (the remains of a fire break) to the top of Urra Moor. At the summit of this unspectacular moor is the trig point at Botton Head. This is the highest point on the North Yorks. Moors at 1,489 ft. and offers a fine view over the industrial wasteland of Teesside. Continue along this broad path as far as the disused railway track at Bloworth Crossing. Turn right and follow this track the walking is easy and at first it comes as a relief but after a while it becomes boring and after going round several bends at the head of various dales you begin to wonder if there is an end to this part of the walk. Don't despair, eventually you come to a point where you can see some buildings at the top of a ridge to your left. This welcome sight is the Red Lion Inn. Follow the short path that leads up the slope at the back of the pub and it brings you out conveniently near the front door and if you have timed your walk correctly that door could well be open.
The Red Lion is an excellent establishment. It serves a choice of very good beers; its food is of a high standard, whether you have a bar snack or a full meal ; it caters for B&B, though this is best booked in advance for space is limited and although it does not have any camping facilities, a polite request to the landlord usually gets you permission to camp in the adjoining field over-night.
You can now see White Cross (map ref :-NZ 677019) about 1½ miles away across the head of Rosedale. You have a choice. You can either walk round the road to it or you can follow a path that you can see heading across the head of the dale. It's your walk so take your pick. The walk round the road is certainly further distance wise but there is very little in it time-wise. If the weather is bad or the ground is wet then it is probably best to stick to the road.
Before starting this section you have a choice to make. Are you going to stick with Wainwright and go on the longer traditional route to complete the walk or are you going to complete the Lyke Wake Walk and qualify for the club and badge. Those wishing to do the latter should now follow this link to my Lyke Wake Walk page and follow the description there. On reaching Ravenscar it is a short and easy walk along the coast to Robin Hoods Bay following the Cleveland Way track.
Those of you that prefer to complete the walk as Wainwright did it read on below.
Follow the road east for about ¾ mile until you come to a track on your left with a wooden signpost to Fryup declaring the 'road' unsuitable for motor vehicles ( a totally unnecessary piece of information ). Turn left along this track and follow it for about ½ mile before turning right along a path on the right which heads for the building you can see. This is Trough House, an old shooting hut and a useful shelter when the weather gets bad; as it can often do in these parts. The path continues past Trough house and past an area of old mine workings before becoming indistinct as it contours round the head of Great Fryup Dale. It then continues along the eastern rim of the dale to join the Lealholm to Rosedale road.
Turn left along this road and follow it for almost a mile until an Ordnance Survey column comes into view at the side of the road at a point where the road bends slightly left. Just before the column turn right and follow the track along Glaisdale Rigg as it descends towards the village of Glaisdale. At the end of the Rigg is a stone wall and the path bears left towards a gate. Go through this and join the tarmac road beyond. Go down past the old hall and the housing estate before turning right to the village proper and the railway station.
Glaisdale, although small is a good place for hikers. It has a shop, accommodation and a pub. If you are in need of an overnight break what more could you ask for ? (Don't answer !)
Just past the railway station take the path on your right which crosses the footbridge and enters East Arncliffe Wood. The path is easy to follow even though it is overgrown a little in places. After ¾ mile it eventually emerges onto a tarmac road and you turn left. Follow this road for the mile down into Egton Bridge and the pub. Turn right into the 'private' estate of Egton Manor. Don't worry this is not a trespass; it is a public right of way. This road runs for 1¼ miles, past a farm house and a former Toll House before joining the Egton to Grosmont road. Turn right and after a short walk along the tarmac you come to the village of Grosmont.
Grosmont is the northern terminus of the 'North Yorkshire Moors Railway' and as such gets very crowded; especially on summer weekends. Cross the level crossing and you see your route stretched out before you in the shape of a long steep hill. It is in fact 1 in 3 although to me it always feels steeper. Before attempting the descent I recommend that you call in the Station at the foot of the hill. No not the one with the steam trains; I mean the one with the fine beer. It will not make the hill less steep but if you have enough by the time you come out you will not care and you will zig-zag your way up without any effort.
Once you have been suitably refreshed it is time to ascend the hill. Route finding is simple, (even for anyone who is over refreshed) just follow the road for about 1 mile, ignoring turnings to the left until you come to a cattle grid. You are now back to open moorland, and after the woods and lanes of the previous section it comes as a welcome relief. After crossing the cattle grid bear half right to Low Bide Stones across what in bad weather can be very marshy ground. On reaching these High Bride Stones can be seen a little over ¼ mile away to your left and the path you take makes a bee-line for them. From here the path heads due east to cross the road and reach the tumulus on Flat Howe. Continue due east to cross the A169, Whitby - Pickering road at a signpost indicating the way to Littlebeck. (If you look to your left the monstrous giant pyramid you can see is the early warning station of R.A.F. Fylingdales. To your left can be seen the town of Whitby with its Abbey perched on the cliff top and just beyond can be seen your ultimate goal, the North Sea.)
Follow the rough track indicated by the signpost across open ground to enter a lane. Follow this lane down and after a short distance it joins a road which is followed down a steep descent into the village of Littlebeck. Littlebeck is a pretty little village but unfortunately you do not have the time to stop and admire it for you still have a further 12 miles to go to reach the finish at Robin Hoods Bay. After Crossing the stream you come to a seat on your right. Opposite this a is the start of a signed footpath to Falling Foss and this is the way you want to be heading. The footpath is easy to follow as long as you ignore the two paths leading off to your left in the early stages. Follow the path up the valley and after about ½ mile you will come to a large hollowed out boulder (the Hermitage). At this point the Falling Foss forest trail is joined on the upper of the two paths and heading for Newton House (a field centre). Do not enter the field centre but continue along the path outside the estate walls and descending through trees to Falling Foss. Pass in front of Midge Hall (a museum), cross the footbridge and follow the path upstream to the stone bridge. Do not cross this bridge but continue upstream along a path signposted to May Beck. After a short while the path crosses the stream via some stepping-stones and continues along the opposite bank. Ignore all the forest trail signs and the footbridge and you will eventually come out into May Beck car-park.
From the car-park follow the tarmac road up the hill and past New May Beck Farm. Just beyond the farm strike right across the open moor to join the B1416 . A gated road running north from the end of a plantation leads all the way into the village of Hawsker 3 miles away. [Wainwright in his coast to coast guide details a more circuitous route over open moor to reach Hawsker but the route is difficult to find on the ground; the paths being almost invisible; and takes much longer to complete, something that needs to be taken into consideration if you wish to reach the finish today. If you are really short of time then Robin Hoods Bay is only a little over 3 miles away by road. Just follow the B1416 to the right until it joins the A171 Whitby - Scarborough road, turn left and after ¾ mile you turn right along a road leading directly into R.H.B.]
From the village street of Hawsker follow the road signposted Robin Hoods Bay and at the point where the road bends right continue straight ahead along a lane past a caravan sight and cross the track of a disused railway. Continue down the lane to Northcliffe Caravan Site and go through it on the left hand road and along a path with a beck on your left until you come to the Cleveland Way path overlooking the sea above Maw Wyke Hole. Turn right and follow this coastal path for 2¼ miles. The path is well used and easy to follow although does seem to be an inordinate number of walls and fences to cross.
After rounding Ness Point you can see your ultimate destination spread out below you and it is an easy stroll to the top of the bay. On reaching the village it is simple to find your way down to the sea. Just look for the one road that leads downwards. It is an extremely steep hill but it is nice to think that you now have only ¼ mile to go down to the sea and complete the crossing .